January ABC challenge: ensaymada (Filipino sweet rolls)

 
This month's challenge was cheese.  I dug around in my recipe collection to see if I could find something interesting and came up with these Filipino sweet rolls.  This is a very common snack bread that I'm pretty sure holds a fond place in the hearts of all Filipinos -- a snack of their youth that carries over into adulthood.  (Like peanut butter and jelly.) They're quite satisfying -- very comforting with the soft bread, the rich cheese, and the light sweetness.  Pair that with the childhood memories of  mom's kitchen and the comforts of home, I can see someone who grew up eating these being passionately attached.  

Most versions are just a round bun topped with a thin spread of buttercream and sprinkled with cheese, usually cheddar or Parmesan.  How much buttercream and cheese, and even what sort of cheese, is a matter of personal taste.  The real star here is the bun, which should be rich, fluffy, and lightly sweet, usually baked in a fluted tin.  The twist here (no pun intended), was rolling up the dough into a rope with a cheese filling, then coiling it into a bun.  While not unusual, it's more time-consuming, so understandably less common.

I made one third of the original recipe (which states it makes 8 servings), but tried to stick with the quantity proportions as closely as possible.  I had to futz with the butter and sugar quantities slightly for easier measuring, and I increased the salt slight for personal taste (and ease of measuring.)  I also revised the preparation slightly.  For 4 rolls, here's what I used:

Dough
1/3 cup warm milk
3/4 teaspoon rapid rise yeast (plus 3/16 teaspoon for active dry)
1 ²/₃ cups all-purpose flour
2 ½ tablespoons white sugar
1/3 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg
2 ½ tablespoons soft butter

Filling
1 ½ tablespoons melted butter
1 ½ tablespoons white sugar
1/3 cup finely grated mild cheddar cheese, plus more for topping

Proof the yeast in the milk with a little sugar.  In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, 2½ tablespoons sugar, and the salt.  Add the egg and activated yeast mixture and mix to form a soft, sticky dough.  Knead the dough to a smooth consistency, then add the butter and knead to fully incorporate and the dough is silky.  Shape into a tight ball, place in buttered bowl, and allow to rise until doubled, about 2 hours.

To make the filling, combine the 1½ tablespoons melted butter with 1½ tablespoons sugar and set aside. Punch down the dough and knead on the counter a few times to distribute the gas.  Cut into 4 pieces.  Working with one piece at a time, roll out thinly into a rough rectangle.  Brush the dough lightly with the butter mixture, leaving a border, and sprinkle with cheese down the middle.  Roll up tightly lengthwise, then into a rope about 14 inches long; pinch the seam and the ends to seal.  Coil the rope tightly and tuck the end underneath and into the center.  Place on a greased baking tray and continue with the remaining pieces.  Cover with a cloth and allow to rise for 45 minutes, then bake at 350F for 15 minutes.  While still warm, spread the remaining melted butter and sugar mixture on the tops of the rolls and sprinkle with additional cheese.  Serve immediately.  Otherwise, allow buns to cool completely, then keep tightly wrapped; apply the toppings just before serving.

I was very happy with my results, but I'm not sure I achieved a bun consistency that would be lauded by the native eaters.  (Some recipes employ the tangzhong technique, which would produce a softer bread.  Also, another video used a lower temperature oven in order to keep the buns only lightly colored.)  The bread was very tasty, very moist and buttery, and certainly within acceptable standards for European or U.S. enriched dough, but I wouldn't describe it as fluffy.  The videos I saw showed buns with a consistency like a soft dinner roll.  Perhaps I should have let the dough rise longer, as I went by the times in the recipe, which were for rapid rise yeast; active dry takes longer.  And rather than letting the dough double, it's possible it should actually triple, as in one video.  Many also were much richer, moistened primarily with egg yolks.  Nonetheless, I might have to save this as my go-to enriched bread recipe.

Conclusion:  These were delicious and the perfect not-too-sweet bun for breakfast or a snack.  If I make them again, I'd stick with a simple bun shape, as I don't think the filled coil added anything and it would cut a lot of time and hassle off preparation.  However, even one sent my glucose levels crashing like the space shuttle Challenger, and, despite the ample calories, I was hungry 15 minutes later.  Soft white bread is my nemesis.

 Recipe:  Ensaymadas via Panlasang Pinoy

Granola

I love all the things that go into making granola, but I really don't care much for granola.  I remember when Quaker's 100% Natural granola first hit the shelves; it was a massive hit in our house and I ate loads of it. I can only think that I OD'ed on it and that's why I no longer care for it.

Fast forward to present day, when I found this "it will change your life" cult-following granola recipe and decided to give it a try.  I don't hate granola, and it's nice to have a crunchy, healthy snack in the house.

There are loads of variations suggested, but I went for the straight recipe to start.  The only change was that I had forgotten to add the brown sugar before spreading it out on the baking sheet.  I wasn't sure I wanted more sugar, and I really didn't feel like piling the mix back into the bowl, already in the sink.  But I also didn't want to miss out on the deep, toasty richness that brown sugar (aka molasses) could add.  So I just drizzled some molasses (maybe two tablespoons?) across the top and mixed it in.

Here's what I used:

3 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1 cup hulled raw pumpkin seeds
1 cup hulled raw sunflower seeds
1 cup unsweetened coconut chips
1¼ cups raw pecans, left whole or coarsely chopped
3/4 cup pure maple syrup
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar (see introduction)
1½ teaspoon coarse salt, to taste

In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients together. Spread mixture in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Transfer to oven and bake, stirring every 10 to 15 minutes, until granola is toasted and dry, about 45 minutes.  Remove granola from oven and season with more salt to taste, if desired.  Let cool completely before serving or storing in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

I had more liquid in the bowl as I dumped it out than she does in the video, and the mix seemed fairly damp.  It might have something to do with the maple syrup and how liquidy or thick that is.  My maple syrup did not have a strong maple flavor, so it probably could have been reduced a bit more in processing, thus rendering it more flavorful and thicker.  I also baked it about an extra 10 minutes, as it still seemed damp prior to that.  Perhaps only a 1/2 cup of syrup next time would reduce the liquid and the sweetness.

Conclusion:  One of the nicest things about making your own granola is that you can toast it to the degree you like, which for me is more than what I get in store bought granola.  And whether it was the oil or the molasses, this recipe has a really nice crispness to it, rather than being crunchy.  I especially like the little bursts of coarse salt that sparkle on the tongue.  However, I'm glad I didn't add the brown sugar as it was plenty sweet as it was.  Perhaps could even be a little less so.  And I'm wondering what the maple syrup added...  Could I use a plain sugar syrup and add a little maple flavoring?  This is a fairly expensive recipe, so anything that would cut costs would help.

Recipe:  Nekisia Davis' Olive Oil & Maple Granola via Food 52

February ABC challenge: the browniest (salted) peanut butter chip cookies

 

I keep asking, "Why do we keep seeking a cookie that tastes like a brownie? Why not just make brownies?"  I still don't know.  Maybe it's a texture thing?  These chocolate chili cookies and chocolate crackle cookies were good, but no substitute for a brownie.  Anyway, here's another attempt.

I reduced the recipe to 1/4 and changed out the chocolate chips for peanut butter (EXTRA chips too), because peanut butter!  I sprinkled half of them with kosher salt to jump on the salted chocolate bandwagon (even though I'm sort of over the whole salted everything trend.  Enough already.)

For a batch of 6 cookies, here's what I used:

1/2 cup 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1 1/4 cup dark or light brown granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon molasses
2 tablespoons 1½ teaspoons granulated sugar
2 1/2 large egg
1 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 1/8 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder, lump-free (any kind)
2/3 cup 3½ tablespoons chocolate peanut butter chips (increased from 2½)
kosher salt, optional

Melt butter and unsweetened chocolate together over low heat or in the microwave until nearly melted. Off the heat, stir until it is.  Stir sugar and molasses into butter and chocolate mixture, then the egg and vanilla, stirring to combine.  Sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, and cocoa, and stir into the batter until completely incorporated.  Stir in the peanut butter chips, making sure they're evenly distributed. In order to maintain the shape while baking, refrigerate the batter until firm but not stiff (about 15 minutes for this small amount.)  

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Scoop batter into about 1½- to 2-tablespoon-sized mounds and space evenly on greased baking sheets, allowing room for them to spread a little. (For a salted chocolate cookie, sprinkle lightly with kosher salt.  These can also be done as a slice-and-bake.)  Bake for 11 to 12 minutes for a fudgy center; they will look underbaked.  Allow to cool a few minutes on the sheet, then transfer to a cooling rack.
 
Conclusion:   As promised, these are very brownie-like.  Very dense, with a rich, dark chocolate taste.  The sprinkling of salt was a nice touch.  They were better after being fully cooled, as I found them somewhat gummy when still warm.  The moistness, even after cooling, made them still a little gummy; I might even have preferred them baked to a drier state.  Very good, but due to the texture, true brownies are still the winner.

Recipe:  the browniest cookies via Smitten Kitchen

Blue cheese and fig preserve biscuits

Update 2025:   When I made these a second time, I used a different blue cheese, Treasure Cave out of Wisconsin, which was milder and saltier.  It gave a cheesier taste in the final product, and I didn't need to add the sprinkle of kosher salt.  I also rolled them a bit thinner, possibly too thin, and got around 100 biscuits.  (I count around 70 in that photo of the first time.)

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I made these for a holiday party at work. Pretty straight forward recipe, although I made two small changes. I thought walnuts would be a good addition and so added them as a topping, but because the biscuits are so small, the nuts had to be chopped smaller than desirable. (Unless you put one large piece on, which might look better.) I also sprinkled some kosher salt onto the jam after baking to elevate the sweet/salty thing going on. I added nutmeg, but I'm not sure it was detectable.

My changes are shown in italics. Here's what I used:

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, room temperature
4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled  (I used Trader Joe's crumbled blue cheese.)
ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
fig preserves (about 3 tablespoons)
chopped walnuts (optional)
kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Place the flour, baking powder, butter, blue cheese, black pepper, and nutmeg in the bowl of a food processor. Process until the dough just comes together and starts to form a ball.  Dump the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead a few times to pull the dough together. Roll out to 1/8 inch thick with a floured rolling pin. Cut rounds out of the dough with a floured 1-inch cutter and transfer the rounds to an ungreased baking sheet.  Using the back of a round half-teaspoon measure or your knuckle, make an indention in the top of each dough round. Spoon about 1/4 teaspoon of fig preserves into each indention, using your finger to push the preserves as best as possible into the indentations.  Sprinkle walnuts on top of preserves, if using.  Bake the savories for 10 – 14 minutes (mine were perfect at 12), until the pastry is just turning light golden around the edges.  Sprinkle preserves with kosher salt.  Let cool on the baking sheet until firm enough to handle, then remove to a wire rack to cool.

These were very easy to make, but were a bit time consuming.  I hesitated in using the full 1/4 teaspoon of jam because I was afraid it would melt and run, but it didn't melt much at all.  (It also never got "bubbly" as the original recipe suggests.)  Furthermore, the cheese is a little bitter, so the sweetness is necessary.  Don't skim on the jam.  The added salt on top also helped cut the bitterness and was a good addition. 

Conclusion:  These were a hit, although I found them a bit dry (the kind that sucks the moisture out of your mouth) and I detected the cheese only as bitterness and not really as "cheese".  Perhaps a different brand or style would produce a different result. Apricot jam would also be a good choice.

Recipe:   Blue Cheese and Fig Savouries via The Runaway Spoon

Quesadillas Salvadoreñas (rice flour muffins)

A friend and colleague was retiring, so we were having a little morning coffee celebration for him.  I needed something I could make easily on a weeknight that would keep until late the next morning.  These rich, little bites seemed to fit the bill.  (Though I have to say, I had to go to three grocery stores before I found rice flour!)

The recipe I used, patched together from several others, gave me mini cakes that weren't as decadent as what I had envisioned in the first recipe I reviewed -- precisely what I was looking for.  I would like to go back, though, and try that original recipe (from Global Table Adventures), because I think they would be more unique.  These were good, but everyone thought they were cornbread.  In fact, fine cornmeal would be a suitable substitution here.

Here's what I used:

3 eggs
1 cup sour cream
1/4 cup half and half
1 cup white sugar
3/4 cup (1 1/2 stick) melted butter
1/2 cup grated, hard (añejo) cotija cheese*
2 cups rice flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
1-2 tablespoons sesame seeds, preferably toasted

Preheat oven to 350F. In a large bowl, cream together the eggs, sour cream, half and half, sugar, butter, and cheese.  Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt, and add to the creamed mixture; blend until well combined.  Divide evenly into 24 greased muffin tins, filling about 3/4 full.

Sprinkle with sesame seeds.  Bake for about 15-20 minutes until they have a golden brown edge, or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean.  Allow to cool for several minutes in the pan until they are firm enough to handle, then gently remove from the pan and cool completely on a wire rack.

Just like good little soldiers.

*Cotija añejo is harder and drier than cotija fresca, which can be quite moist.  You can substitute any hard, white cheese -- Parmesan is frequently included.  Consider the salt content, though.  The cheese I used was quite salty, but I still chose to add a small amount of salt after tasting the batter.  If you use a less salty cheese, you might want to increase the salt quantity.  Or not -- I'm sure it's delicious either way.  It's purely a matter of taste.

Conclusion:   Tasty!  Very easy to make, and the quantities are forgiving.  They're sweet and buttery, with a slightly grainy texture similar to cornbread, but very soft.  They smell cheesier than they taste, so don't worry too much about the type of cheese you use.  They would be excellent served with a plain raspberry puree.

Original recipes:
I started out with this one from Global Table Adventure, but was concerned about the comments that they were too greasy.  This one from Qué Rica Vida seemed a little fussy, with the separated egg whites.  Also, the directions aren't entirely clear, but it was very similar to the first.  This video with recipe by Francisca Bo sounded authentic, but had dramatically different proportions from the other two.  It seemed more like a standard cake recipe rather than rich, buttery little bites.  I also looked at this recipe by Sabores en Linea, but it was unnecessarily challenging to convert and I questioned the proportions.

Pretzel & Butterscotch Chocolate-chip Cookies

I sponsored a blood drive today at work, so I brought cookies for the donors.  Chocolate chip cookies are about as close to "American comfort food" as you'll find, but these have a fun difference -- they contain pretzels, browned butter, and bread flour!  (They are an alteration of Alton Brown's The Chewy.)

Blood donors are encouraged to eat salty snacks after donating.  Between the pretzels and the little bit of kosher salt sprinkled on top, I thought these would be a good snack choice.  In addition, the pretzels provide a nice crunch that you normally get from nuts, but since so many people have nut allergies I didn't want to bring anything with nuts.

Midway through smooshing the dough balls.

I missed the part of the recipe that called for a rounded tablespoon of dough for each cookie -- I used a cookie scoop that was about a level tablespoon.  That would explain why I ended up with 66 cookies!

Although to get the stated yield, you'd have to use 3 tablespoons of dough for each cookie.  That's a BIG cookie.

A light sprinkling of kosher salt adds a nice flavor contrast.

Also, they baked up hard and crunchy rather than chewy, probably due to the smaller size.  They were still delicious, though!  The browned butter gave them a flavor that reminded me of a toasted marshmallow.

Delicious!

Conclusion:  Sweet and salty -- a great combination.  For a chewy cookie, I guess they need to be much larger.  At a smaller size, they come out crunchy when cooked as directed, so an adjustment would have to be made to the time and/or temperature.   Overall, though, a very good cookie (and I prefer this smaller size.)

Recipe:  Pretzel-Scotch Cookies via une gamine dans la cuisine

Apple Bacon Kuchen

 

I didn't save the recipe!  Can't believe it.  But on a search, this was the only one that popped up, and I know I've accessed this blog before, so maybe it's the right one.  And hers looks like mine.

Topping
8 strips of bacon
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
1 tablespoon maple syrup (grade B amber)
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2 granny smith apples

Kuchen
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened
1 cup sugar
2 eggs, beaten, room temperature
1 tablespoon maple syrup (grade B amber)
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup (8 ounces) sour cream

Cook the bacon in large skillet until nice and crispy.  Remove to paper towels to drain.  Pour the bacon fat out of the skillet and reserve. Wipe out the skillet to remove any bits and pieces.  Add back one Tablespoon of bacon grease and the butter and melt over medium heat.  Stir in the brown sugar and maple syrup.  While the buttery brown sugar is melting together, peel and core the apples and cut them into small chunks.  Drop the apple pieces into the butter as soon as you chop them to prevent discoloration and stir to coat well.  Sprinkle over the cinnamon and stir to combine.  Cook until the apples are soft and the syrupy brown sugar is reduced and just coating the apples.  Cut the bacon into small pieces and stir into the apples. Set aside to cool.  The topping can be made a day ahead and stored covered in the refrigerator until ready to cook.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Grease a 9 x 13 inch baking pan.  In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.  Add the eggs and beat until combined.  Beat in the maple syrup. Mix in the flour, baking powder and baking soda alternately with the sour cream.  Beat until well combined.  Spread the batter into the prepared pan, spreading it out to the corners.  Spread the apple-bacon topping over the batter to evenly cover the top.  Press the filling in a little bit with a spatula.  Bake the kuchen for 25 – 30 minutes, until the kuchen is puffed and brown on the edges and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve warm cut into squares.

The bacon was tough, so next time I wouldn't cook it until crispy.  I had some other thought about dealing with the bacon/topping, but I don't remember what it was.

Conclusion:  I wasn't bowled over with this, which is probably why I didn't save the recipe, but my co-workers thought it was great.

Recipe:  Apple Bacon Kuchen via The Runaway Spoon