Spiced Rye Ginger Cookies

I'm not sure why I keep trying different ginger cookies-- it's not like I'm a huge fan of ginger, or even spice desserts for that matter.  I think I'm looking for a hearty breakfast cookie-- something not too sweet, that I can sink my teeth into, dip into my coffee, and not feel guilty about.  (This Breakfast Cookie didn't work out so well.)  To me, the basis for that is in whole grains for nutrition and character, and spices for flavor.  (My imaginary recipe would also keep well for days, long enough for me to work my way through them.)  So I was intrigued by the use of rye flour here.  I thought it would give the cookies some substance.  I'm sure it did, but I don't know if you'd be able to identify the rye without being told it was there, even though I used dark rye rather than medium.  The only other change I made was to roll them in Sucanat, which is unrefined, natural cane sugar.  It has a dry, dark brown grain with a soft crunch rather than hard crystals.  It's producing the grainy texture you see in the photo.

Here is the original recipe:

    2 cups (212g) medium rye flour
    1 teaspoon baking soda
    1/2 teaspoon table salt
    2 teaspoons ginger
    3/4 teaspoon black pepper
    1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
    1/2 teaspoon cardamom
    3/4 cup (149g) granulated sugar
    1/2 cup (99g) vegetable oil
    1 large egg
    1/4 cup (85g) molasses
    1/3 cup (76g) coarse sparkling sugar or 1/3 cup (66g) granulated sugar
    chopped crystalized ginger for topping (optional)

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly grease (or line with parchment) two baking sheets. Weigh your flour; or measure it by gently spooning it into a cup, then sweeping off any excess. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, and spices. Set aside. In a large mixing bowl, using either a hand whisk, an electric mixer, or a stand mixer, whisk the sugar and oil until combined. Add the egg and whisk until smooth. Stir in the molasses. Add the dry ingredients to the bowl and stir until well combined. Use a spoon (or a tablespoon cookie scoop) to portion 1 1/4" balls of dough. Roll the dough balls in granulated or sparkling sugar to coat before placing onto the prepared baking sheets. Leave 2" between them on all sides; they'll spread as they bake. Bake the cookies for 12 to 15 minutes, until they're puffed and their edges are set. Remove the cookies from the oven, and cool completely right on the pan.

A keen eye will detect that I had a little trouble with these.  It looks like my oven might have been a bit too hot, causing them to rise and firm rather than melt into flat puddles like the King Arthur examples, with "bendy centers" as they called them.  The bigger issue was that I didn't know what they meant by the edges being "set".  When I first tested them, the edges were no longer shiny, but still quite soft.  By the time they were what I consider "set" (slightly resistant to a poke), they were overdone, and even slightly burnt on the bottom.  (I didn't bake them that much longer!)  I probably should have taken them out about 30 seconds after my first test.  Oh well.  That's how the cookie crumbles.

Conclusion:  These tasted a lot like ginger snaps, but with a mild burnt sugar flavor because of being over baked, which wasn't necessarily unpleasant. They were quite hard and crunchy, which is not how they were supposed to turn out. I enjoyed them well enough dipped in hot coffee, but they weren't anything special 

Recipe:  Spiced Rye Ginger Cookies via King Arthur Baking

Black Bread with Pecans, Raisins & Cranberries

I was looking for a decadent sweet dough to make when I came across this recipe in my files.  This didn't match what I was looking for at all, but I thought it might make a nice breakfast toast in the mean time.  I made it back in 2007 and didn't make note of any issues in the process; then again, I was more inclined to follow directions exactly as given back then.  (These days, I tend to go off script and then wonder why I have problems.)  In my notes, I recommended adding orange zest, which I've done here.  I also made mention of using half whole wheat flour in place of the bread flour; I made a similar substitution here.  However, I don't have bread flour, so I used Trader Joe's all-purpose flour, which has a higher protein content than standard AP.  I used up the last of some light rye flour, about 1/2 cup, and made up the rest with dark rye.  I also used about 1/2 cup of mild whey (left over from straining yogurt) in place of some of the water.

I'd consider this a sort of mock black bread in that it's not a sourdough.  I wondered why there is vinegar in the ingredients-- maybe to add sourness that would normally be provided by true sourdough?  Despite that, while the dough tasted a bit sour, the end result is not, which is okay by me.

Here's what I used:

1 envelope active dry yeast

1 cup warm water (105 degrees F to 115 degrees F)

1½ cups rye flour

3/4 cup white whole wheat flour 

1¾ cup bread flour

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

2 tablespoons molasses

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon instant coffee powder

1/2 cup pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup dried sweetened cranberries

zest of 1 orange, finely grated 

1 large egg white

1 tablespoon old-fashioned rolled oats 

Proof the yeast in the warm water.  In a mixing bowl, whisk together the rye flour, white whole wheat flour, cocoa powder, and salt.   In a small bowl, stir together the melted butter, white vinegar, molasses, sugar, and coffee powder to dissolve the coffee powder.   Add the butter mixture and the yeast into the flour mixture and stir to combine.  Stir in pecans, raisins, cranberries, and orange zest until mixed, then stir in the remaining 1 cup bread flour to make a soft dough.  Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes*, adding more flour as needed to prevent sticking.  Place the dough in a large, oiled bowl; turn to evenly coat.  Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in warm place, away from drafts, about 1 hour or until doubled in volume.

Punch down dough and shape into a ball. Place on a greased baking sheet and cover with a towel.  Let rise in warm place, away from drafts, about 1 hour or until doubled in volume. 

Heat oven to 350 degrees F. In a small cup, lightly beat the egg white with a fork. Brush top of dough with egg white, then sprinkle evenly with the rolled oats. Bake 35 to 40 minutes or until browned and bread sounds hollow when tapped. Transfer bread to wire rack; let cool. Serve warm or completely cooled.

 

*Times were all much longer than called out in this recipe.  I used my stand mixer to knead the dough and it took about 30 minutes to reach window pane status.  The first rise took about 2 hours, and the second about 90 minutes.  (The loaf did experience oven spring while baking, as well.)

 

I added only about an extra 2 tablespoons of flour to the dough at the beginning of kneading.  I don't know if it was the added heaviness of the whole wheat flour, or because I used AP flour instead of bread flour, but I had trouble getting it "smooth and elastic".  I'd use a bit of high gluten flour if available to give the heavy rye and wheat flours a little help and reduce kneading time.

During the final shaping, the dough tends to pull away from the fruit, especially the cranberries (because they're glazed), so it might be helpful to give them a light coating of flour before mixing in.  Otherwise, I pulled the dough over to cover any exposed fruit.

I used a small Romertopf clay baker (9.5" x 6.5"), so I let the dough do its second rise as a vague loaf shape on a piece of parchment in a separate pan.  I soaked the top and bottom of the clay baker in water for about 15 minutes, then placed both in the cold oven to preheat.

I was aware of a fair amount of added acid in this recipe, not only in the molasses, coffee, and vinegar called for, but also the whey that I used (in place of water-- a very mild whey, not sour.)  In researching what affect acid has on yeast dough, I found this on The Fresh Loaf:  "[I]n rye breads, acidity matters a lot. Rye bread structure doesn't depend on gluten but on a viscous gel made of water and complex carbs (polysaccharides). The amylases degrade the complex carbs, turning them into simple sugars and causing the rye breads to become dense and gummy."  So, two thoughts:  1) maybe I didn't have to knead the dough to the windowpane stage; and 2) what affect, if any, did the whey have on the bread?  I wouldn't have called the bread gummy, but I thought it could have used another 5 minutes or so in the oven.  I baked it at 425 for about 30 minutes.  I would have left it a bit longer except when I checked, the sides were turning black.  (Now I think that was something on the baker causing them to burn, because it was only in spots.)

Conclusion:  Very good.  The crumb (and crust) is dense but soft, and the flavor delicate.  No specific flavor comes through, but they all blend together with only the occasional sweet tang of a bit of fruit and a light floral note from the orange peel.  This is not a fruit-heavy bread so, if the yeast is strong enough, it could easily accept more fruit and nuts, up to a cup of each.

Recipe:  Black Bread with Pecans, Raisins & Cranberries via Family Circle magazine

May ABC Challenge: seeded rye bread

This year the Avid Bakers Challenge group is doing recipes from the Great British Bake Off.  We're picking our own recipes, and I needed bread, so I chose a couple rye bread recipes and sort of combined them.  They were pretty similar to start, but one had a lot of seeds and seasoning, and the other had more technique (and more molasses!)

I made a half recipe, and here's what I used:

4-6 ounces warm water
1/2 1 tablespoon black treacle molasses
3/4 teaspoon dried yeast
1 cup wholemeal rye flour 
1/2 strong white bread flour  
1 teaspoon salt  
2 tablespoons sunflower seeds  
2 teaspoons flax seeds (linseeds) 
2 teaspoons poppy seeds 
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds 
½ tsp chilli powder 

Mix the molasses into the warm water, then add the yeast and allow to proof.  Place the rest of the ingredients into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook.  Mix on medium speed for 10 minutes, to a soft, slightly sticky dough. If the dough looks too dry, add more warm water. Place the dough in a well-oiled bowl, cover with cling film and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hour, until about doubled in size.  Knock down and knead briefly to knock out any air. Shape into a log and place in a greased, 7.5 x 3.5" tin.  Cover loosely with cling film and leave in a warm place for a further 1 hour, until the dough has risen to the top of the tin. Towards the end of the proving time, heat the oven to 425°F.  Slash 3 diagonal cuts across the top.  Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375F and bake for another 10 minutes, until dark brown and the base sounds hollow when tapped. Turn out onto a wire cooling rack for at least 30 minutes to cool before cutting.

I had to add a few more ounces of water, and I still didn't end up with what I'd call a "shaggy" dough, and it was only sort of soft.  It was sticky, and it gave way, but it felt tough with all the gluten development.  (I used AP flour with some high-gluten flour instead of bread flour.  Maybe it was too much gluten.)  After an hour, it didn't look risen enough, so I let it go a while longer.  But then I forgot about it and let it proof too long.  (I don't know what effect that has, if any.)  I struggled with what size pan to put it in; I didn't want a round loaf, and the loaf tin seemed too long, but I used it anyway.  I had sprinkled sunflower seeds on top, but they fell off as soon as I turned the loaf over.

Conclusion:  Very mildly rye-tasting but with that slightly sour taste that comes with rye.  Not very complex flavors, but the texture was good.  It worked well for toast but would also work for a sandwich. 

Original recipes:  Ruby’s Smørrebrød with Fennel, Flax, Poppy & Chilli and Julia’s Black Rye Bread via The Great British Bake Off 

September ABC challenge: speculaas-spiced honey bread

We just moved into a new office building and everyone was going to be unpacking and getting organized first thing Monday morning.  I thought I'd ease the way a little and bring in some fortification.  This spiced bread recipe seemed like the perfect thing, but in muffin form for easy handling.  I had an idea in mind as to how this was going to turn out, and I was excited, but it didn't quite work that way.  Partially, that was because I baked in muffin tins instead of a pan, which caused them to bake faster.  But otherwise, it was the recipe.  True, I didn't follow it exactly, but I don't think my changes should have had any impact on the results.

Here's what I used:

125 g (1¼ cups) fine whole grain, stone ground, dark rye flour
125 g (1¼ cups) all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
pinch 1/4 teaspoon salt
65 g (4½ tablespoons) melted butter
110 g (1/3 cup) honey
110 g (1/2 cup) sugar
2 teaspoons speculaas spices (recipe below) or gingerbread /pumpkin pie spices
1 egg
200 g (7 ounces) buttermilk mix of Greek yogurt/milk

Preheat oven to 375° F. Grease or line an 8×8 inch baking tin. (I used muffin tins.) In a bowl, combine the sugar, honey, speculaas spices and melted butter and give it a quick whisk. Beat in the egg. Combine the flours with the baking soda and salt. Sift in the flour in about three stages, alternating with the buttermilk. Whisk until you have a smooth batter. Pour the batter into the tin and make sure it is evenly distributed. Bake for 25 minutes, then turn down your oven down to 350° and bake for another 10 minutes. Remove the gingerbread from the oven and let it cool in the tin for about 30 minutes. Wrapping it in foil while still warm helps it stay moist.

Speculaas spice mix (two quantities given -- all measurements are in teaspoons)
cinnamon                                  3 ¼       1 5/8
ground cloves                            1             1/2
grated nutmeg                            3/4        3/8
ground white pepper                   1/2         1/4
ground aniseed                          1             1/2
ginger powder                             1/2        1/4
cardamom powder                       1/4        1/8
totals                                        7 ¼       3 5/8
 
I'm not sure why they have you start at a higher temperature.  Baking soda, unlike baking powder, doesn't need heat to react.  And I baked the second tray at 350, since that's where the oven was, and they turned out the same.

I used my fluted muffin tins for this, thinking the cakelettes would be cute and perfect for work.  But the batter rose so much in the oven that the first batch, though I filled them only 3/4 full, came out completely round.  I put only about a heaping tablespoon in each cup in the second tray, and at least they came up only to the top of the cup, but still the tops are so rounded that I can't set them out with the decorative side up.  They look ridiculous.

As with every recipe I've made from this site, my batter was WAY too thick.  I added about 1/3 cup of water to it, just to loosen it up a bit, and it was still too thick.  I had to pat it down with a wet finger or I might have ended up with peaks and valleys from where the batter held its shape.  Consequently, with all the mixing, and perhaps also due to the high percentage of baking soda, I ended up with large holes.  My home economics teacher would not have been pleased.

Not a nice texture. 

Conclusion:  Very disappointing.  Very bland, and you can taste the baking soda.  Not at all what I had expected.  They rose tremendously while baking, so I think the soda could probably be cut in half.  (I wonder if there's an error in the recipe and it was supposed to be baking powder.)  And they definitely need more spice.  Just seems like the proportions are all wrong on this recipe.

Original recipe:  Dutch speculaas gingerbread cake with rye, buttermilk & honey via Weekend Bakery