Fruit and Spice Bread

There are a lot of similar spiced fruit bread recipes that come out this time of year.  This was a new one for me to try.

To make a smaller, individual loaf, I halved the original recipe, which would have been shaped into a ring after being twisted, and adjusted the baking times.  Here's what I used:

1/2 cup warm water
2¹/₄ teaspoons active dry yeast

1/2 teaspoon sugar 

1/4 cup buttermilk, room temperature

1/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 

3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 + 1/8 teaspoon aniseed, chopped

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1³/₄ cups all-purpose flour 

1/2 cup whole wheat flour

1/4 cup old-fashioned oats 

1/2 cup mixed diced dried fruit (I used apricots, tart cherries, and golden raisins)

 

Proof yeast in 1/4 cup water with the sugar. In mixing bowl, add yeast mixture, remaining 1/4 cup water, buttermilk, honey, cinnamon, salt, aniseed, and allspice; stir to combine. Add 1 cup all-purpose flour, whole wheat flour, and oats and beat 3 minutes. Gradually beat in 1/2 cup all-purpose flour. Continue beating until dough cleans sides of bowl. Turn out dough onto floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, adding up to 1/4 cup all-purpose flour if very sticky, about 10 minutes. Place dough in oiled bowl and turn to coat. Allow to rise at room temperature until tripled in volume, about 6 hours. 

 

Punch down dough and turn out onto work surface. Add dried fruit and knead until thoroughly combined. Divide dough in half; roll each half into a 15-inch-long rope. Place ropes side by side and twist together loosely to form one even loaf. Place on cookie sheet and cover with kitchen towel; let rise in warm area until almost doubled in volume, about 1 hour 45 minutes. 

 

Preheat oven to 400F. Transfer bread to oven, then immediately reduce temperature to 350F and bake 30 minutes. Reduce temperature to 325F and continue baking until bread sounds hollow when tapped on bottom, about 15 minutes. Transfer bread to rack and cool.  

 

The directions to allow the dough to rise for 6 hours until tripled in volume were a surprise.  It's not an enriched dough--there is no egg or butter, and not an unusually large amount of sugar (honey)--so the directions are not typical for what is a fairly standard dough recipe.  I had scheduling issues with preparing this bread, so I decided to take advantage of the long rise time and start it in the refrigerator around 2:00 in the afternoon.  I didn't remove it until the following morning, and it was barely doubled.  I left it on the counter, but it continued to rise very slowly, perhaps because the room was quite cool.  Finally, losing patience, I took it out to the warm car and left it there until I couldn't wait any longer.  It still wasn't tripled, but I was concerned about letting it go any longer.  By now, it had been 24 hours.  I punched it down, kneaded in the fruit, shaped it, and left it to rise; this time it took far less time to nearly double, but I didn't get any oven spring. (I should also mention I used fast-acting yeast, which throws another curve ball into the process.) 

Since it lacked any sort of decoration, I gave it a butter rub after it had cooled to give a little shine.

Conclusion:  The bread was dense and chewy, similar to a bagel--I'm not sure if that is the intended texture or if it didn't rise properly.  It wasn't especially spicy; the most noticeable flavor was anise, which I didn't especially care for.  I normally like anise, but this came across a little medicinal.  (Maybe I need to buy new anise seed.  It tastes more herbal than candy-like.)  It wasn't particularly "festive" tasting, but was a nice variation on raisin bread.  It might also benefit from some walnuts.

Recipe:  "Fruit and Spice Bread" via Bon Appétit, September 1992

January ABC challenge: ensaymada (Filipino sweet rolls)

 
This month's challenge was cheese.  I dug around in my recipe collection to see if I could find something interesting and came up with these Filipino sweet rolls.  This is a very common snack bread that I'm pretty sure holds a fond place in the hearts of all Filipinos -- a snack of their youth that carries over into adulthood.  (Like peanut butter and jelly.) They're quite satisfying -- very comforting with the soft bread, the rich cheese, and the light sweetness.  Pair that with the childhood memories of  mom's kitchen and the comforts of home, I can see someone who grew up eating these being passionately attached.  

Most versions are just a round bun topped with a thin spread of buttercream and sprinkled with cheese, usually cheddar or Parmesan.  How much buttercream and cheese, and even what sort of cheese, is a matter of personal taste.  The real star here is the bun, which should be rich, fluffy, and lightly sweet, usually baked in a fluted tin.  The twist here (no pun intended), was rolling up the dough into a rope with a cheese filling, then coiling it into a bun.  While not unusual, it's more time-consuming, so understandably less common.

I made one third of the original recipe (which states it makes 8 servings), but tried to stick with the quantity proportions as closely as possible.  I had to futz with the butter and sugar quantities slightly for easier measuring, and I increased the salt slight for personal taste (and ease of measuring.)  I also revised the preparation slightly.  For 4 rolls, here's what I used:

Dough
1/3 cup warm milk
3/4 teaspoon rapid rise yeast (plus 3/16 teaspoon for active dry)
1 ²/₃ cups all-purpose flour
2 ½ tablespoons white sugar
1/3 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg
2 ½ tablespoons soft butter

Filling
1 ½ tablespoons melted butter
1 ½ tablespoons white sugar
1/3 cup finely grated mild cheddar cheese, plus more for topping

Proof the yeast in the milk with a little sugar.  In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, 2½ tablespoons sugar, and the salt.  Add the egg and activated yeast mixture and mix to form a soft, sticky dough.  Knead the dough to a smooth consistency, then add the butter and knead to fully incorporate and the dough is silky.  Shape into a tight ball, place in buttered bowl, and allow to rise until doubled, about 2 hours.

To make the filling, combine the 1½ tablespoons melted butter with 1½ tablespoons sugar and set aside. Punch down the dough and knead on the counter a few times to distribute the gas.  Cut into 4 pieces.  Working with one piece at a time, roll out thinly into a rough rectangle.  Brush the dough lightly with the butter mixture, leaving a border, and sprinkle with cheese down the middle.  Roll up tightly lengthwise, then into a rope about 14 inches long; pinch the seam and the ends to seal.  Coil the rope tightly and tuck the end underneath and into the center.  Place on a greased baking tray and continue with the remaining pieces.  Cover with a cloth and allow to rise for 45 minutes, then bake at 350F for 15 minutes.  While still warm, spread the remaining melted butter and sugar mixture on the tops of the rolls and sprinkle with additional cheese.  Serve immediately.  Otherwise, allow buns to cool completely, then keep tightly wrapped; apply the toppings just before serving.

I was very happy with my results, but I'm not sure I achieved a bun consistency that would be lauded by the native eaters.  (Some recipes employ the tangzhong technique, which would produce a softer bread.  Also, another video used a lower temperature oven in order to keep the buns only lightly colored.)  The bread was very tasty, very moist and buttery, and certainly within acceptable standards for European or U.S. enriched dough, but I wouldn't describe it as fluffy.  The videos I saw showed buns with a consistency like a soft dinner roll.  Perhaps I should have let the dough rise longer, as I went by the times in the recipe, which were for rapid rise yeast; active dry takes longer.  And rather than letting the dough double, it's possible it should actually triple, as in one video.  Many also were much richer, moistened primarily with egg yolks.  Nonetheless, I might have to save this as my go-to enriched bread recipe.

Conclusion:  These were delicious and the perfect not-too-sweet bun for breakfast or a snack.  If I make them again, I'd stick with a simple bun shape, as I don't think the filled coil added anything and it would cut a lot of time and hassle off preparation.  However, even one sent my glucose levels crashing like the space shuttle Challenger, and, despite the ample calories, I was hungry 15 minutes later.  Soft white bread is my nemesis.

 Recipe:  Ensaymadas via Panlasang Pinoy

Día de Muertos! Pan de Muerto

 

In spite of my recipes from New Mexico and from international cookbooks, I have only one recipe in my collection for Pan de Muerto.  It's in the November 2004 issue of New Mexico magazine, but reprinted from Kippy Nigh's A Taste of Mexico.  I had concerns about the recipe, particularly the amount of liquid and the high quantity of rich ingredients.  In addition, many reviews of the cookbook stated that measurements were way off, furthering my concern with quantities.  I looked up a few more recipes on line to compare, but in the end decided to work my way through the recipe I already had.  (What's the point of keeping all these books and magazines if I'm just going to go on-line all the time?)

My first concern was she listed no sugar other than what's used to proof the yeast.  The second was she uses no salt.  Then there was the large amount of eggs, cream, milk, and butter, although I could see she compensated with a large quantity of yeast.  (Still, it sounded way too wet.)  I proceeded with caution and made a few adjustments along the way.  For starters, I cut her recipe in half and adjusted her odd measurements (1/2 quart of milk?) to more common measurements.  Here's what I used, with my changes in italics and strikeout:

1 scant tablespoon dry yeast
1/4 cup warm water
1 tablespoon teaspoon brown sugar
4½ - 5 cups all purpose flour
3/8 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup cream or full-fat yogurt
2 eggs, room temperature
1 egg yolk, room temperature
grated zest of 1/2 one orange (about 1 tablespoon)
1/2 teaspoon anise seed
1 1/4 cup warm milk, approximately
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 egg, beaten
1 tablespoon water
pinch of salt
butter and sugar for decorating (optional)

Dissolve the yeast in the warm water with the teaspoon of sugar and allow to proof.  In a mixing bowl, combine 4½ cups of flour, 1/2 cup sugar, salt, yogurt, eggs, egg yolk, orange zest, anise seed, and the proofed yeast mixture; mix well either with your hands or a kneading hook, adding milk or more flour as necessary to bring the mixture to a soft dough consistency.  Knead until the dough has become somewhat springy, then add in the butter 1 - 2 tablespoons at a time, kneading well between each addition.  Continue to knead the dough until it's smooth and can be shaped into a tight ball, about 15 minutes.  Place the ball of dough in an oiled bowl and allow to rise, covered, in a warm place until doubled in size, about 90 minutes.  Turn out onto a board and knead briefly to release the excess gas.

To shape the loaves, divide the dough in half.  Using one of the halves, cut off about 3-4 tablespoons of dough and shape into a small ball.  Cut off about another 1/3 cup to roll out two logs for "bones", shaping them as desired.  Shape the remaining dough into a tight ball and place on a greased baking sheet.  (Be sure to leave room for the dough to rise.)  Mix the beaten egg with the tablespoon of water and brush the larger dough ball with a cross, then place the "bones" where you've placed the egg wash.  Brush the top of the loaf where the bones cross and place the small dough ball there.  Repeat with the second half of the dough.  Cover lightly and allow to rise in a warm place for about 30 minutes.  Preheat the oven to 350F.  When the loaves have nearly doubled in size, about 15 minutes later, add the pinch of salt to the egg wash and brush the loaves all over.  Bake for 25-30 minutes, checking after 20 minutes, until golden brown.  Cool completely on a rack.  If desired, brush the cooled loaves with softened butter, then sprinkle with sugar.

This turned out well; I was happy with
the flavor and the texture.  The dough was

very soft, but not sticky as long as I didn't fool with it too long.  But still, a bit difficult to work with, and ended up being so soft that my loaves slid sideways a bit.  The recipe could probably do with a little less dairy.  None of the other recipes used cream or yogurt and most didn't use milk.  However, a comment on the recipe from Mexico in My Kitchen asked about using all butter instead of lard or vegetable shortening; the author responded that it was fine to do, but the bread might not be as soft.  Since I didn't want to use lard or vegetable shortening either, I knew the milk products would help produce a soft loaf.

Conclusion:  I was happy with the results, but I can't recommend this recipe because it required too many adjustments.  Next time I'll try a different one.

Recipes:  Pan de Muerto from A Taste of Mexico by Kippy Nigh, with tips on technique from Mexico in My Kitchen.  Also referenced, the recipes from The Spruce Eats and allrecipes.  

Hotdog buns

 

More COVID baking. Normally I wouldn't bother making from scratch when I'm fine with the commercial product.

17.6 oz all-purpose flour (4 US cups, measured by spoon and level method*)
½ cup warm milk
¾ cup warm water
2 teaspoons dry active yeast
1½ teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 egg
2 tablespoons softened butter or oil
Extra oil to lightly oil the bowl
1 egg for the egg wash

In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, yeast, sugar, and salt.  In another small bowl, whisk together the water, milk, and egg and add to the flour mixture; knead to bring the dough together.  (It should be fairly wet and sticky.)  Knead for about 5 minutes, until you have a smooth ball.   Add the oil or butter and knead for a further 5-10 minutes, until the dough is shiny, smooth, and tacky to the touch.   Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, turning so the dough is lightly oiled on the surface.  For best results, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and store in the fridge overnight (8 hours) or up to 24 hours. (Alternatively, if you want to bake it on the same day, you can cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rise for 1 hour in a warm place, until it has doubled in size.)  On the day you bake the bread rolls, turn the chilled dough out on to a lightly floured surface and lightly dust the surface of the dough as well.  If the dough wasn't chilled, you may need extra flour on your hands and on your work surface to prevent the dough from sticking.    

FOR THE CUTTING METHOD FOR HOT DOG BUNS
Roll out the dough into a rectangle that's about 16 inches in length and 4-5 inches in width. Cut the dough into 10 sections and place them on a parchment paper lined baking tray, with about 1.5 inches of space between each.

FOR THE SHAPING METHOD FOR HOT DOG BUNS
Cut the dough into 12 (or 10) equal sections. I usually weigh the bread dough so that I know how much each section should weigh.  Knead each portion for just a few seconds to form a smooth ball. Roll out each portion into a flattened piece of dough that's about 5 inches long and 4 inches wide. Then TIGHTLY roll up the dough to form a cylinder. Tuck in the sides/edges and pinch these edges and seams to seal. Place each portion on a parchment paper lined baking tray, about 2 inches apart.

FOR BURGER BUNS
Cut the dough into 8 sections (for larger buns) or 10 sections (for smaller buns) and roll these portions in your hands to form smooth balls. Place them on the parchment paper lined baking tray, about 3 inches apart.

Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rise for 45 min in a warm place, until it has just about doubled in size.  

Preheat the oven to 180°C / 350°F about 30 minutes prior to baking.  Brush the hot dog rolls with the egg wash (lightly beaten egg) and bake in the preheated oven until they are golden brown on top and sounds hollow when tapped, about 15-20 minutes.  Remove from the oven and allow to cool.  Best eaten on the same day, but will keep longer in an air-tight container in the refrigerator.  Makes 12.

These were more like the inside of a loaf of homemade white bread.  They were sort of chewy, more like soft pretzels.  Did I knead them too long?  I did what she recommended.  In her notes she states, "Using cup measurements can result in the addition of more flour than intended, causing the dough to be too dry. This results in a heavy, dense bread roll, instead of the soft, fluffy roll that this recipe guarantees." 

 

Conclusion:  These were okay.  I guess I was expecting store-bought buns but with more flavor.  They were good, but I'm not sure they're worth the trouble.

Recipe:  Easy Homemade Hot Dog Buns via The Flavor Blender