Saturday, September 18, 2021

Crutchfield's Apple Coffee Cake


I found this recipe in my mother's recipe box, cut from a bag of Crutchfield's unbleached flour.  I don't know the age of the recipe, but it's old enough that the company doesn't exist anymore.  I made a few modifications (in italics and strikeout) because it seemed a little plain.

2 1½ cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup butter
1 cup minus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons molasses
2 eggs
1 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 large apple, pared and sliced

Topping
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 cup chopped nuts (I used walnuts)

Preheat the oven to 350F.  Grease a 10-inch tube or 9-inch square pan.  Combine topping ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.  Sift together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; set aside.  In a large mixing bowl, cream together the butter and sugar; add the molasses and vanilla and beat to combine.  Add the eggs one at a time and beat until fluffy.  Add the flour mixture alternately with the sour cream in two batches and beat until fully blended.  Spread half the batter in the prepared pan and arrange the apple slices on top; sprinkle with half the topping.  Add the rest of the batter and sprinkle with the remaining topping.  Bake for 40 to 45 minutes.  Cool in the pan for 30 minutes; serve warm.

I halved the recipe and baked it in a 7-inch cake pan for 35 minutes, but it was still a little underdone in the center. My mother's notes read, "Rather than slicing apple, chopped finely and mix into half topping before spreading between layers."   I still sliced the apple, but I did mix it with the topping--- it seemed like a good idea to flavor the apples.  (I absent-mindedly mixed all the topping with the apples.  I realized my mistake immediately, so I picked out a bunch of nut pieces and sprinkled those on the top, along with a little brown sugar.  The brown sugar didn't help with the decor at all.) However, because I don't pare apples, it would be better to chop them so it's easier to cut cleanly.

Conclusion:  It was good, but I found it a little dull and flat tasting, and quite sweet.  There was also the faint taste of baking soda.  I think my changes helped, but it would have benefited from a little more salt, especially in the apple mixture, to spriten it up (is that a word?) and less sugar. The cake was also very soft.

Recipe:  Apple Cream Coffee Cake via Crutchfield's

Sunday, September 5, 2021

Coffee Ice-Cream Muffins

 
I like these pumpkin ice-cream muffins so much, but my local store hasn't been carrying the flavor for a couple years, so I decided to try with another flavor.

For 4 muffins:

3/4 cup Trader Joe's Coffee Blast ice cream (or other intensely coffee or chocolate ice cream)
1/4 cup white flour
5 tablespoons whole wheat flour (or 1.5 - 2 tablespoons coffee flour)
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoons baking powder

Streusel
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
4 teaspoons white flour
1½ teaspoons salted butter
4 dash spoons (heaping 1/4 teaspoon) powdered coffee
2 teaspoons cocoa nibs


Allow the ice cream to sit out in a medium-sized bowl until it's nearly melted. Preheat the oven to 350F and grease 8 muffin tins. (I prefer to use silicone liners.) Sift the flours, salt, and baking powder together and add to the softened ice cream; mix thoroughly. Scoop the batter into the tins.  Sprinkle with cocoa nibs and the streusel, and bake for about 25 minutes or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean.

This streusel topping wasn't what I'd wanted.  I was trying to make the firm, slightly crunchy kind that often tops berry muffins, and that's evidently the recipe I should have used.  I used the recipe from a steusel coffee cake, but when it seemed too buttery I added more flour.  Still, while tasty, it melted and made only a thin topping.  It didn't do much for appearance and just wasn't what I'd wanted.

Conclusion:  These weren't as good as I'd hoped.  They were actually fairly bland, with the coffee flavor coming predominantly from the topping.  I could also really taste the whole wheat, which wasn't good in a cakey muffin.  (Although only really noticeable when I tried just the bottom part with no topping.)  I would not make these again as is.  I'd be willing to give it another shot adding almond flavoring to the batter and sliced almonds to the topping.

September ABC challenge: Buckwheat Galette with Apples, Onion, and Cheddar


This month, the challenge is apples.

The original recipe for this galette was badly written, which really makes me question their "test kitchen approved" stamp.  Per the comments to date, only one person had made it other than myself and it didn't turn out well.  Not all the ingredients were in the list, for one thing, and some were vague, like 1/4 of an onion, and 5 slices of cheese.  I had also questioned the need to add flour to the apples--- they weren't very juicy.  In fact, there was no running liquid in the pan.  But since it doesn't have a container to hold in any juices while baking, I figured this must be a safeguard.  In the end, it probably wasn't necessary, but didn't seem to hurt.

I've rewritten the recipe to be more clear, where that was possible, and also provided notes. My changes or suggestions are italicized or in strikeout.

Topping
5 slices sharp cheddar (packaged, pre-sliced)
3 fresh sage leaves, julienned
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar

Dough
1 cup + 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 cup buckwheat flour
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cut into chunks and chilled
1/3 to 1/2 cups ice water

Filling
1 tablespoon butter
2 fresh sage leaves, julienned
1/4 red onion, sliced 1/8" thick (about 1/4 cup)
2 green apples, cored, sliced 1/8" to 3/16" thick
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

Chill the cheese in the freezer until it's firm, but not frozen. Pulse in food processor with the sage leaves until lightly crumbled. Add the 1/4 cup flour in three batches, pulsing between each, then pulse together at high speed until it's well combined into small crumbs. Pulse in 1 tablespoon brown sugar.  Set aside.

Whisk together the flours, sugar, and salt, then cut in or process the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs the size of peas.  Add the ice water and stir until the dough forms into a ball-like mass. Flatten the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill for at least 30 minutes.

In a large sauté pan over low heat, melt the butter with the 2 sage leaves. Add the red onion and cook until wilted, then add the apples and sauté on medium heat for 3-5 minutes, until apples soften and release their juices. Add 2 tablespoons brown sugar and toss to coat. Cook an additional 2 minutes so the sugar melts. Remove the pan from heat and toss with 1 tablespoon flour to thicken the juices. Reserve and cool filling.

Roll out the dough into a rough 12-inch circle. (The rough edges should extend beyond the 12 inches or the dough will be too thick.)  Move to a baking pan, then arrange apple mixture evenly in the center, leaving a 2- to 3-inch border. Fold edges over the apples and sprinkle with cheese crumble. Bake at 350° F for 40 mins or until the dough is cooked through and cheese is golden brown.  Serve warm.

I sliced the onion on the thinnest setting of my mandolin, less than 1/8 of an inch, but used a thicker setting, about 3/8 inch, for the apples.  My onion was rather small (often red onions are huge), so I used about 1/3 of it.  (I contemplated using 1/2, but played it safe.  Good choice-- I wouldn't have wanted more onion.)  I also didn't have fresh sage, so I used dried and just approximated the amounts.  I should have crumbled it more, as I tended to get the occasional strong bite of sage.

About the cheese... 5 slices?  Presumably the author is thinking of the packaged, pre-sliced cheese, which comes in about 4" x 4" x 1/8" slices.  Who buys that???  You'd think you could use cheese according to personal taste... except there's flour involved.  Too much cheese and you'll have it melting everywhere.  Too little and it will be floury and tasteless. Better too much than too little?  Turns out, possibly not.  I used 16 slices that were about 4" x 1" x 3/16", and I used about 1/3 mild cheddar and 2/3 New Zealand (white) sharp cheddar. I had just under 1½ cups of the crumbles, but I felt that was too much, so used only about 1 cup of it.  (This confirms my thought that the recipe intends you to use packaged, pre-sliced cheese.)  I started with only 2 tablespoons of the flour when the cheese was in about pea-sized chunks, and it looked okay, so I added another tablespoon.  Then it looked too floury, so I processed it longer and the cheese broke down into much smaller bits and the flour was well incorporated.  I just can't remember if I added the last tablespoon. I don't think I did, and since I started with too much cheese, my crumbles were certainly more cheesy than the recipe intended.  The flavor was fine, but once the galette cooled, the cheese became hard.  With more flour, I think they would have been softer, more shortbread-like.  (Could the cheese go under the apples, or would the oil cause havoc with the crust?)  It was fine, though, once rewarmed.

Conclusion:  I liked this more once I'd gotten over the initial disappointment when my expectation didn't meet reality.  This was definitely on the savory side, despite all the sugar. However, it might have been nicer made with slightly sweeter apples, or a combination.  The buckwheat added a nice flavor, but made the crust soft and a bit mealy, and gives it an unattractive hue.  The cheese, also, I find unattractive, especially after cooling.  Very tasty with a dollop of sour cream.

Recipe:  Buckwheat Galette with Apples, Cheddar, and Sage via Food52

Tuesday, August 24, 2021

August ABC challenge: Sweet Green Tomato Pie


This month's challenge was a "throw back" -- any theme we wanted to duplicate from this year.  It's so rare to get my hands on green tomatoes, so when I do, I make pie.  This Green Tomato-Apple Pie was fantastic, but I decided to try a different recipe this time that uses only tomatoes. (I was also curious about the white pepper.)  I thought green tomatoes would have a tart taste, but they don't.  They taste very slightly green, but otherwise have pretty much no flavor at all.

I didn't want a whole pie, so I halved the filling ingredients with the intention of using a 6"-diameter, deep pie plate.  (Actually, I needed a little more than half.  Doing the math, the volume of a 9-inch pan, 1-inch deep = 63.62 in3; the volume of a 6-inch pan, 1.5-inches deep = 42.4 in3.)  A very large tomato gave me just 2 cups, but I ended up using a second, medium-sized tomato, which just brought the filling to the rim without any mounding when packed in.  I kept all the other filling ingredients at half quantities.  I made the full recipe of pie dough and used about 3/4 of it.

Here is the full recipe:

1 Basic Sweet Pie Crust
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup plus 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon finely ground white pepper
4 cups finely chopped green tomatoes
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice*
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2 teaspoons heavy cream

Make the pie crust and let rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Divide the dough in half. Place 1 piece of the dough on a lightly floured surface and roll out to an 11-inch circle, about 1/8-inch thick. Transfer to a 9-inch pie pan. Trim the crust with scissors or a sharp knife to within ½ inch of the outer rim.

In a large bowl, mix together the brown sugar, ½ cup granulated sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, and pepper. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the flour mixture across the bottom of the prepared piecrust. Add the tomatoes and lemon juice to the bowl with the remaining flour mixture and toss to coat. Spoon the tomato mixture into the pie shell, and dot with the butter.

Roll out the remaining crust on a lightly floured surface. Place on top of the tomato filling and tuck the overlapping crusts into the pan, forming a thick edge. Crimp the edges to seal and cut small, ½-inch long vents in a decorative pattern along the top crust. With a pastry brush, brush the top of the crust with the cream, and sprinkle with the remaining ½ teaspoon of sugar.

Bake for 15 minutes at 425F, then reduce the temperature to 375F. Bake until the crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbly, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Basic Sweet Pie Crust
8 ounces all-purpose flour (about 1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
2 tablespoons solid vegetable shortening
3-4 tablespoons ice water 

Sift the flour, sugar, and salt into a large bowl. Using your fingers, work in the butter and shortening until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add 2 tablespoons of ice water and work with your fingers until the water is incorporated and the dough comes together. Add more water as needed to make a smooth dough (I used about 3½), being careful not to over-mix. Form the dough into a disk, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before using.

*I accidentally doubled the lemon juice, using the full tablespoon for half the filling amount.

I used raw sugar on top of the crust, but I'm not sure I like the speckled appearance it causes.  I forgot about watching for the crust burning.  I checked at 30 minutes and the edges were too brown, so I covered them and baked the pie for another 8 minutes to make sure the top crust was crisp all the way through.  It bubbled over quite a bit, but fortunately I used a pan under the pie just for that.

 

Interestingly, the tomato-apple pie had more sugar, less cinnamon, ginger instead of white pepper, and a LOT more salt, but I liked it more (as I recall.)

Conclusion:  Hmm... Well, it's good, but I've had better.  It's very sweet-- could use less sugar-- but had a nice tang, I guess from the extra lemon juice.  The first bite had an interesting, almost floral taste that I couldn't source.  I'm not a fan of the flour in the filling, or at least not that much-- it made it a bit gummy and gave it a commercial texture.  The crust wasn't a winner either-- no flavor at all.  It needs that extra salt.  Lastly, it would be prettier-- and look more homemade-- if the tomatoes were sliced rather than diced.  (They did hold their shape really nicely.)

Recipes:  Old Fashioned Sweet Green Tomato Pie and Basic Sweet Pie Crust via Emeril Lagasse