Monday, February 18, 2019

February ABC challenge: mini Brie, date, and walnut bread

This is our first challenge from this year's source, Brown Eyed Baker. (We skipped January, although I did make her Morning Buns last month, because I LOVE THEM.) I'm afraid I've changed it up so much that it doesn't much resemble the original. The idea of going through all the trouble of making a cheese-swirled yeast bread when I could get essentially the same thing, albeit not as fancy, by melting a few slices on a piece of white didn't excite me. I could have replaced the filling with any number of things, but I tried to stay within the "savory" category as much as I could while still being intrigued by the bake.
I discovered the decadent combination of dates and this incredibly rich, buttery (and expensive) Saint-André triple-cream Brie cheese several years ago and decided to try working that into the bread. I also added walnuts for texture and flavor, as well as using half whole wheat flour.

The original recipe makes 2 large loaves, which I scaled back to one-quarter of the original.  This is what I used:

1/4 cup lukewarm water 
56g (1/4 cup + 1½ teaspoons) lukewarm milk(65g)
1 Tablespoon honey (or 1 Tablespoon + 3/4 teaspoon granulated sugar)
1 teaspoons (3.5g) instant yeast
198g flour (¾ cup AP, ¾ whole wheat, 1 Tablespoon high gluten) (209g)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon vegetable oil
1/4 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
3/4 cup (140g) dates, chopped and softened in 3 Tablespoons warm water
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger (optional)
4 ounces (113g) triple-cream Brie cheese, thinly sliced
1¾ cups (7oz/198g) diced onion (about 1 medium onion) or 1 small bunch of fresh chives (1 oz/28.5g), minced
2½ cups (12 oz/340g) grated, shredded, or cubed cheese


Combine the water, milk, and honey (which is what I used) and whisk in the yeast until dissolved; allow to proof.  In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and salt (and sugar, if using.)  When proofed, add the yeast mixture, along with the vegetable oil, into the dry ingredients.  If using a mixer, use the paddle (or hook) attachment and mix on the lowest speed for 2 minutes. If mixing by hand, use a large spoon and stir for about 2 minutes. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes. 

Switch to the dough hook and mix on medium-low speed, or continue mixing by hand, for 3 minutes, adjusting with flour or liquid as needed. The dough should be soft, supple, and tacky but not sticky.  Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface.  Work in the walnuts, then knead for 1 or 2 minutes until they're evenly distributed.  Form into a ball and place in a clean, lightly oiled bowl; cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and immediately refrigerate overnight for up to 4 days.  The dough should double in size in the refrigerator.  (If you want to bake the bread the same day, just let it rest at room temperature for 60 to 90 minutes, until it doubles in size.)   

 

When you're ready to shape the dough, pour off and reserve any excess water from the dates, then puree, along with the ginger, to a thick but spreadable paste, adding reserved water if necessary; set aside.  Bring the dough to room temperature before shaping.  Transfer to a lightly floured work surface, dust with flour, and roll into a rectangle about 4 inches wide and 16 inches long.  (See thoughts on size.)  Spread the date paste over the surface, weighing it more heavily on the outside end of the strip and leaving about an inch on the outside end bare.



Lay the cheese slices in a staggered formation on top, also weighing them more heavily on the outside end of the strip, then roll it up to form a log. (It should be as tight as you can get it without squeezing out the filling.)  If any cheese or walnuts fall out, tuck them back in.  Pinch the seam to seal.  


 



 
Place in either a greased pan or on a greased cookie sheet and cover loosely with plastic wrap, then let rise at room temperature for about 90 minutes, until increased to about 1½ times its original size. 


About 15 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C), or 300°F (149°C) for a convection oven. Because of the cheese, there may be air pockets or tunnels in the risen dough that could cause it to separate in the spirals. To minimize this, poke through the top crust in a few spots with a skewer or toothpick. The dough may fall a bit, but it will recover in the oven. Bake for about 35 minutes. The bread is done when it's a deep golden brown and the internal temperature is about 185°F (85°C) in the center. Remove from the pan or sheet and cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.



I was a little afraid that this was going to be an expensive disaster, but it turned out well!  I was disappointed in the shape; I think perhaps I didn't allow it to rise long enough before baking.  Consequently the outside hardened, leaving the inside nowhere to go but out the sides.  I also think the size was unwieldy.  I based it on this Cranberry Cinnamon Swirl Bread, but the filling for this recipe was much bulkier and it didn't roll up as nicely.  Next time I might roll the dough out to 5 x 12 or 5 x 14.   

Conclusion:  This had a curiously "dark"---perhaps earthy---flavor to it that I couldn't quite pin down...  sort of  anti-umami.  I think it was the combination of the pungent cheese and the dates and the whole wheat.  Unusual, but very tasty.  I was trying to decide whether it needed some sort of spread, but I really can't think what I would put on it.  (If I ate pork, a thin slice of Serrano ham rolled in would be great.)  The cheese already gives it a buttery flavor, and there was plenty of date paste to add enough moisture.  I'd have liked it to have had a little more cheese, and a few more walnuts, maybe even up to 1/2 cup.  But over all I was really pleased with how this turned out (other than the shape.  I'd try to find a proper pan for it next time.)

Original recipe:  Soft Cheese and Pepperoni Bread via Brown Eyed Baker

Sunday, February 10, 2019

Morning buns


Apparently these are a new fad that started slowly but is quickly gaining momentum. They were created at Tartine Bakery in San Francisco in the 1970s; I first had one many years ago, but it's been only recently that I've started seeing them more frequently in coffee shops. (I don't think I've ever seen one in a bakery.) I'm not a fan of the super sweet, heavily laden breakfast pastries that are the usual fare in American bakeries, so I was immediately addicted to these lightly sweet, flaky, buttery rolls. (I'd call them a roll, not a bun. After all, they are rolled!) That said, while every one I've had has been very flaky, similar to a croissant, I just found another recipe from Bon Appétit that is made with enriched bread dough, which to me seems more like a cinnamon roll.

I didn't change much in this recipe. I switched out cardamom for the cinnamon (the scent of the cardamom with the orange was otherworldly), water for the orange juice (and used it for proofing the yeast), used less orange peel, and a mix of salted and unsalted butter (adjusting the added salt accordingly.)  I also modified the rising technique as recommended in one of the comments.  Here's what I used:

For the Dough:
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon + 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
2¼ teaspoons instant (rapid-rise yeast)
¼ cup orange juice water, very warm

3/8 teaspoon salt
1½ cups butter (half unsalted) cut into ¼-inch-thick slices and chilled
1 cup sour cream, chilled
3 tablespoons ice water
1 egg yolk

For the Filling:
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup light brown sugar

1 tablespoon
grated zest of one small orange
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon cardamom, freshly ground
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Proof the yeast in the warm water with 1 teaspoon of sugar.  Combine the flour, 2 teaspoons sugar, and salt in a large zipper-lock bag. Add the butter, seal and shake to evenly coat the butter. Press the air out of the bag and reseal. Roll over the bag several times with a rolling pin, shaking the bag after each roll, until the butter is pressed into large flakes. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir in the yeast mixture, sour cream, ice water, and egg yolk until combined.  Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead briefly to form a smooth, cohesive ball. Roll the dough into a 20x12-inch rectangle. Starting at the short end, roll the dough into a tight cylinder. Pat the cylinder flat into a 12x4-inch rectangle, wrap in plastic wrap and freeze for 15 minutes.


Line a 12-cup muffin tin with liners and grease with non-stick cooking spray.  In a medium bowl, stir together the sugars, orange zest, cardamom, and vanilla.  Remove the dough from the freezer and place on a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough into a 20x12-inch rectangle and sprinkle evenly with the filling, using more towards one long (outside) edge and less on the other long (inside) edge.  Leave a ½-inch border at the long ends. Lightly press the filling into the dough. Starting at the long end with less filling, roll the dough into a tight cylinder and pinch lightly to seal the seam. Cut the cylinder into 12 equal pieces and transfer cut-side-up to the prepared muffin tin. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours.



Adjust oven rack to middle position and place loaf or cake pan on bottom of oven. Remove plastic from rolls and place in oven. Pour 3 cups boiling water into pan in oven, close oven door, and let buns rise until puffed and doubled in size, 20 to 30 minutes*.  



Remove the rolls from the oven and heat the oven to 425 degrees F. Bake for 5 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees F.  Bake until the rolls are deep golden brown, **40 to 50 additional minutes. 


Allow the rolls to cool in the muffin tin for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack and remove the liners. The rolls are best served warm, but can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Make Ahead: After placing the buns in the muffin tin, place the tin in the freezer until the buns are firm, about 30 minutes. Transfer the buns (with the liners) to a zipper-lock bag and freeze for up to 1 month. To finish, return the buns to a muffin tin and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours, then proceed with rising in the oven as directed.



I had some problems with this recipe.  The first was with the rising.  According to the comments, this recipe is from Cook's Country (subscription required), although the blogger did not credit them.  (She claims she did, but I still don't see it.)  They modified the rising technique so that, instead of placing the rolls in a warm oven (which apparently caused some butter leakage), they put them in a cold oven with a pan of hot water.  My oven has a constant pilot light and so is always a little warm (no more than 100F), but I also used the pan of hot water.  *After 30 minutes, the rolls had hardly puffed at all, which didn't surprise me.  (It might be my yeast, which has been in the freezer for several years.  While it proofs fine in warm water, dough seems to rise more slowly than expected.  It really seems to need the heat.)  I let the rolls rise until they looked puffed and actually doubled, which was an hour and 45 minutes.  (On the other hand, in this demonstration by Claire Saffitz for Bon Appétit, the rolls have risen only about 1 cm after 30 minutes--not much different from mine.  She tests their readiness by the dent test.  I tried that at 30 minutes and the dough sprang right back, but I wasn't sure if it wasn't just sticking to my finger.  Besides, her dough was an entirely different consistency.)  By that time, there was a substantial amount of leakage of the sugar water.

Which brings me to problem #2:  the liners.  I had been counting on using my silicon muffin liners, but despite digging through every box I thought might have kitchen items, I couldn't find them.  The blogger warns that these rolls WILL stick, so I had concerns.  I greased the tins, lined the bottoms with a circle of greased parchment, then wrapped a strip of greased parchment around the side of the rolls and crossed my fingers.  It worked fine--- no sticking.

Since my oven's only heating element is at the bottom, I end up with burned bottoms with items that have a high butter content, so I try to use an air-bake pan in those cases.  To address that here, I put the muffin tin on an air-bake sheet pan (which also helped to catch some of the leakage.)

One problem I did not have was a wet dough, as some people did.  My dough was beautiful--soft and easy to work with.  I can only assume either they put in too much liquid, or, most likely, their butter softened while they were working with it. 

At 40 minutes, the rolls looked done, but I wanted them more caramelized and crispy, so I left them another 5 minutes.  I sort of think that, since butter browns so easily, anything with a high butter content probably needs to get pretty dark before it's actually fully baked.  (I was also concerned about what effect the liquid leakage and the air-bake pan would have on the bottoms, whether they'd be soggy.  Better over baked than under.)  But when I started taking them out of the pan, they seemed too pale and soft on the undersides.  So I put them back in the oven, without the air-bake pan, and baked for another 10 minutes.  I checked the undersides again, and they still seemed too pale and soft.  Back in for another 10 minutes.  **In all, I baked them for about an hour and a half, minus the five minutes or so that they were out of the oven while I was fussing with them.  They turned out perfectly:  crispy and flaky on the outside, very soft and airy on the inside.  (The tips and edges were just starting to get too brown.)  There was a little caramelized sugar at the bottom of each tin that would have cemented the rolls to the tin if I'd let them cool very long in it, but I took them out hot and cooled them on a rack upside down.  (And peeled the paper off before it hardened on as well.)  I'm not even sure it's necessary to do anything more than grease the tins, as long as you remove the rolls soon enough.

Conclusion:  These were absolutely delicious.  They are a bit fussy when you don't know what to look for or expect, but I think once you know that you can whip these up pretty easily.  The reduced amount of orange was still plenty for me--- just a hint.  My only issue is that they are almost too buttery.  I'd probably start with 1 cup of butter next time and see how that works out.  I'm just hoping now that they'll freeze well.

Original recipe:  Morning Buns via Brown Eyed Baker (via Cook's Country)

Saturday, February 2, 2019

Tahinli çörek (Turkish sesame pastries)


I read somewhere that mahlab is good for only something like 6 months. I've had mine for quite some time, but I keep it in the freezer, hoping that will extend its viability. It had a bitter flavor, but one might expect that since it's made from the pit of a type of cherry. I wish I'd tasted it when it was fresh. I wasn't sure it was a pleasant flavor.

These are pretty rich, so I cut the recipe in half and made them the smaller size (3 instead of 2.) I have to admit that one and a half of the pastries was just about the right amount for breakfast to satisfy the taste buds and the tummy, but for health's sake one should probably stick with a single, smaller bun.

Since these are unique, I stuck pretty closely to the original recipe, mostly just adjusting the salt quantity.  Here's what I used to make half the original quantity:

For the dough:
1/2 heaping teaspoon dry yeast
1/6 cup warm water
1/4 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons milk
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon oil
1 heaping tablespoon sugar
1 egg, scrambled and divided
1 -1¼ cup all purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon mahlep (mahlab)

For the filling:
5 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon melted, salted butter
1 teaspoon orange flower water
salt to taste (if necessary)
2 teaspoons finely chopped shelled pistachios per pastry (optional)

2 tablespoons orange flower water for coating pastry
raw sesame seeds
sugar (granulated or demarera)

Proof yeast with warm water and sugar. Set aside approximately 10 minutes, until well frothy.  In a mixing bowl, add the milk, butter, oil, and sugar and mix well. While still warm (not hot!), add  half the scrambled egg and the yeast mixture and mix well with a whisk. Sift together 1 cup of flour, salt, and mahlep. Add this to the egg mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until you get a slightly sticky dough. Knead the dough, adding the extra ¼ cup flour if needed. Once you have a nice dough, place it back in a greased bowl, cover, and place in a warm area for approximately 2 hours (until doubled).

Punch down the dough and knead for a minute; divide into 2 or 3 equal pieces. Let the balls rest about 25 to 30 minutes. After 15 minutes, mix together the tahini, sugar, melted butter, and orange flower water.  Mix well, then check to see if you want to add salt. The mixture will be granular. (And for me there seemed to be some sort of chemical reaction which made it become fairly thick and almost gummy.  Weird.)

Once proofed, roll each ball into a disk about 1/8-inch thick. (If making 2, it should measure about 11 or 12 inches; 3 should measure at least 7 inches.  They should be as thin as you can get them while still being manageable.) Divide the tahini mixture evenly for each pastry, approximately 3 tablespoons each. Spread this out very thinly almost to the edges. If you like, sprinkle 2 - 3 tsp of finely chopped pistachios on each one. Roll each round into a tight cigar shape; pinch each end closed. Slowly and gently roll each pastry back and forth with your hands to extend it, starting at the middle. Don't worry if small tears occur. The final strand will be almost as long as from the tip of your fingers to your elbow. Twist the long strand of dough gently over and over again (but don't over twist or you will snap it.) Coil the twisted pastry loosely from the center working outwards and tuck the end underneath. Place the coils on prepared baking sheets (either lightly greased or lined with parchment) several inches apart, leaving room for final rolling.  Preheat oven to 350 F.  Cover pastries with a tea towel and let proof for 30 minutes. (While proofing, the centers might pop up -- that will be fixed with the rolling. There might also be small amounts of oil weeping from the pastry.)

When the rolls are nearly done, beat the remaining egg half in a small dish; arrange in separate bowls the orange flower water, sesame seeds, and some sugar. Flatten each pastry with a rolling pin gently to half its size. Prick it all over with a fork to arrest its rising in the oven. Using a pastry brush, wash the pastries with orange flower water all over, then the egg wash. Sprinkle each pastry generously with sesame seeds and finally with sugar. (It will make a nice crust when baked). Bake pastries for 30 minutes (for the large) or about 20-25 minutes (for the small), or until golden brown.  Watch for over browning the bottoms.


These were more time-consuming than I had anticipated, perhaps mostly because I had to keep checking the directions.  (I've simplified the process here.)  I tried to call up the web page, but it kept diverting to another screen (although I could call it up on the iPhone.  Apparently this redirect is due to a faulty widget, but the original blogger is no longer maintaining his blog, so this won't be remedied.) It helped to check the photographs in the original blog post.

They were probably plenty done at 25 minutes (perhaps could have done less), but since it mentions a brown crust I left them a little longer, but then they were over done. (The bottoms were dark.) And the twists didn’t show up on the outside.


Conclusion:   These were tasty, with an unusual flavor (perhaps the mahlab), fairly crisp on the outside but tender on the inside.  The filling wasn't very noticeable, but I'm sure lent moistness and flavor, though subtle.  They were good despite being a little tough (from extra baking); they just don’t look terribly appetizing.  (They'd look better if they weren't over baked.)  The orange flower water wasn’t very discernible. Perhaps could have done with a tiny bit more salt, but were okay as they were. (I didn’t add any additional salt to the filling.)  I probably would not make this recipe again, but I'd like to try the one at M bakes.

Recipe:  Tahinli via Is That My Buréka?

Monday, December 3, 2018

December ABC challenge: chocolate almond biscotti


Last recipe for this source. I just got back into town after 7 months away and most of my kitchen is still packed up, but I knew I could pull these together with what I had.  I decided to leave out the chocolate chips because 1) I didn't want chocolately dessert cookies and 2) I couldn't find them (even though I have loads.)  I also didn't use "quality" cocoa--- I used Hershey's, which is what was in the cupboard.  (I couldn't find anything better in the stores anyway.)  I also reduced the recipe to 1/3; thankfully measures were given in grams, because most of my measuring items are still packed but the scale wasn't.  Nonetheless, I still had some things off:  my egg was a jumbo, which I tried to reduce a bit, and I couldn't measure the baking soda to the tenth of a gram so I had to guesstimate.  The resultant batter was quite thin, so I added another tablespoon of flour.  (Should have added cocoa instead.)  Even still, there was no way I could roll it into a log, but I've dealt with sloppy biscotti batter before and just spooned it into heaps on the baking tray then smoothed it out with the back of a wet spoon.  It worked.

Here's what I used. Changes to the 1/3 quantities are in italics and strikeout:

47g flour
46g whole wheat flour
1/4 cup cocoa powder
1/3 (approx.) teaspoon baking soda
pinch of salt

1 jumbo egg*, at room temperature
67g sugar
1/3 teaspoon (approx.) vanilla extract
1/6 teaspoon (approx.) almond extract
42g almonds, toasted and very coarsely-chopped
1/4 cup chocolate chips

1 tablespoon (approx.) unwashed coarse sugar

In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg.  *Remove 2/3 - 1 tablespoon and set aside for the wash.  Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt.  In a medium bowl, beat together the remaining egg, sugar, and vanilla & almond extracts. Gradually stir in the dry ingredients, then mix in the nuts (and the chocolate chips if using) until the dough holds together.  
This is after adding more flour.  Still sticky.
 
Lightly grease a baking sheet.  Dollop the batter onto the sheet into a "log" about 12" long.  Smooth and shape with the back of a wet spoon so it's about 3" wide.  Brush the top of the log liberally with the egg (you might not use it all) and sprinkle with the coarse sugar.  Bake at 350F for about 20 minutes, until the dough feels firm to the touch.  Remove from the oven and cool 15 minutes.
On a cutting board, use a serrated bread knife to diagonally cut the cookies into 1/2-inche slices. Lay the cookies cut side down on baking sheets and return to the oven for 15-20 minutes, turning the baking sheet midway during baking, until the cookies feel mostly firm.






Note: I stood the biscotti upright during the second baking so they'd dry evenly. After about 15-20 minutes, they smelled like they were burning and were quite hard, so I took them out. I think I had too much baking soda, which could have caused them to rise more and therefore bake and dry faster.  Or perhaps it was standing them up.  But 20-30 minutes (the time called for in the original recipe) seems like a really long time for such thin cookies anyway.

Conclusion:   I wasn't impressed. I didn't expect to be, as I think it's pretty hard to make biscotti that have an appreciable chocolate flavor. It really comes from the chips or coating, so why bother? However, they were tasty dipped into this...



Recipe:  Chocolate Biscotti via David Lebovitz

Wednesday, January 3, 2018

January ABC challenge: crustless spinach quiche II

New year, new source for the Avid Baker's Challenge group:  David Lebovitz.  We started out with a savory dish to counterbalance all the sugar from the previous months.  And who knows, maybe starting the year with a crustless spinach quiche will be a new tradition.

This recipe is pretty straightforward and basic.  David initially called it a "cake", then changed it to "pie."  I must object.  It's not encased in dough, therefore it's not a pie.  I hope he doesn't decide to call things whatever he wants "just because" or I will be very annoyed.  I thought about putting it in a pie crust to make a quiche, but I got too lazy.  I called it quiche anyway.  That is allowed.

I cut this recipe in half, and then made a few minor adjustments.  My changes to a half recipe are in italics and strikeout.  Here's what I used:

1 medium leek 
1 tablespoon butter, salted or unsalted
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound fresh spinach, stemmed and triple-washed
pinch of chipotle chile
about 1/8 teaspoon of ground nutmeg
1 3/4 cup whole milk

2 ounces cream cheese, softened
3 4 large small eggs

1½ teaspoon turmeric powder
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
Parmesan cheese

Remove the green part of the leeks, slice each lengthwise, rotate them a quarter turn, then slice them lengthwise again, keeping the end intact. Swish the leeks in a bowl of water until they’re grit free, and towel-dry. Cut into small pieces.  Melt the butter in a pan and sauté the leeks with a little salt and pepper, stirring occasionally, until they’re translucent. While they’re cooking, cut the spinach into smaller pieces.  Once the leeks are cooked, begin adding the spinach in batches, putting on the lid until the spinach has cooked down, then you can add more.  Include the nutmeg and chile powder during the final batch.  Allow to cool. 

Preheat the oven to 400ºF (200ºC). Liberally butter a round or rectangular baking dish with high sides, with a capacity of at least 1 quart.  In a food processor, puree the spinach mixture with the milk, cream cheese, eggs, turmeric, and white pepper until almost smooth. Season with salt and pepper, if desired.  Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish.  If desired, grate a layer of Parmesan over the top and bake for 45 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.


I would have used the cheese on top but I forgot about it as I was seasoning and then was afraid it would end up too salty if I added the cheese.  If I'd remembered there was supposed to be cheese on top, I would have cut back on the salt.  Also, I didn't notice we weren't supposed to puree until smooth, and did.  I'm sure the texture is more interesting if left a little ragged. (Pretty sure you could whip the egg whites separately and fold them in and you'd have spinach soufflé, always a crowd favorite.)  I used a medium-sized, ceramic casserole dish for baking, but I still ended up baking it for 45 minutes, although I did turn the temperature down to 375 after 30 minutes.

Conclusion:  Very good.  Predictable, but a good main stay.  It had a really interesting flavor that I couldn't quite identify.  I really liked the cream cheese; I think it added a little more depth of flavor to the dish.  I would definitely put this in a crust---it needed just a little something extra for fun and to cut some of the intensity of the flavor, and would also mask the unpleasant bitterness where the spinach gets browned.  (In fact, it might be delicious sliced and wrapped in puff pastry.)  I'm also trying to figure out how to add something oystery.  (An oyster cream sauce?  Is there such a thing?)  Lastly, mine had a bit of a wateriness as I chewed, even though it doesn't seep in the pan.  Perhaps I should cut back the milk next time (or use the correct type and quantity of eggs.)

Recipe:  Spinach Pie via David Lebovitz

Friday, December 29, 2017

Martabak manis (sweet Indonesian pancake)

"Martabak is a popular food that is delicious and very loved by the whole family," reads the copy.  I bought this mix several years ago because it looked interesting.  I held onto it for a long time (in fact it should have been used prior to April 2014), intimidated by the Indonesian directions.  Google Translate helped, but there were significant gaps.  (It doesn't help any that Translate makes up new words.  Take this translation, for example:
Timbang 285 adonan, lalu tambahkan dengan 20g (2 sendok makan penuh) butter yang sudah dilumerkan, aduk hingga tercampur rata.
which was translated into:
Weigh 285 dough, then add with 20g (2 tablespoons full) butter that has been melinjkan, stir until well blended.
Melinjkan?  What is that?  And where did it come from?  It's not English, and it wasn't in the original sentence to be translated.  A mystery.

               

I finally decided I had the directions sufficiently translated and it wasn't going to get any better, so I dove in. Here's what I used:

2 egg yolks
pancake mix
350g water
150g water
60g butter, melted and divided into 3 equal portions, plus additional
sugar
condensed milk
toppings (chocolate, cheese, nuts, etc)

In a medium-sized bowl, add the egg yolks, the pancake mix, and the 350g water and blend with a hand mixer on medium speed for 10 minutes.  Stir in the 150g water thoroughly, and allow to rest for 1 hour.

Heat a 9.5" skillet on medium heat for 5 minutes.  Measure out 285g of the batter into a bowl and stir in 20g of the melted butter.  When the pan is ready, butter the bottom and sides lightly, then add the measured-out batter.  Allow to cook for about 7 minutes, until holes have opened up across the surface like a honeycomb.  Lower the heat, sprinkle with sugar, cover, and cook for about another 3 minutes until the surface is no longer wet. 
(The surface will still be shiny.)  Remove the pancake from the pan to a cutting board and rub the surface with butter.  Pour on condensed milk and selected toppings.  Cut in half, and place one half on top of the other like a sandwich.  Rub exterior with butter if desired.  Allow to cool somewhat before cutting into wedges.  Repeat with the remaining batter, making 2 additional pancakes.  I recommend sandwiching the two whole pancakes together for convenience, rather than cutting each in half, unless you want different toppings on each. 

I found cooking the pancakes a little challenging.  (My pan was only about 7", which probably threw off the cooking.  I probably should have done only two pancakes and used the 10" skillet.)  The first one worked best, but cooked quickly.  I suspect you should let the pan reheat well before adding the next batch of batter.  The first one was cooked on the spider burner with an oiled pan; the second on the solid cover with a buttered pan.  The first one came out a bit spotted and cooked quickly, but seemed to work out best.  The second one came out with a beautiful, evenly tanned crust... except where it burned.  The third I did on the spider burner with butter, and it did the worst.  It didn't cook evenly, and one spot didn't rise at all.  (A big air bubble formed under the batter and raised it off the pan surface.)


I don't know why the instruction have you add the butter in separate batches.  Why not just add all 60g to the batter and THEN divide it up?  I can only assume the fat causes some reaction in the batter if left to sit.  In fact, the last batch of batter sat longer after the butter was added than the first two.

I cut into the first pancake immediately.  It was very spongy and didn't cut well (which is why I recommend letting them cool a little so the crust firms up), but was delicious and decadent.  Very much like a pancake, but eggier, spongier, and overly buttery.  (Probably could do without all the slathering.)  Perhaps it's better likened to a crumpet.  It was soft and rich and extremely satisfying.  I used dulce de leche plain and with toasted almonds, and chocolate ganache, all delicious.  I can imagine cheese would also be delicious, resulting in something like these Salvadoran quesadillas.  (Particularly the recipe from Global Table Adventures.)  The possibilities are endless.

I don't remember where I purchased this product, so I'm not likely to find it again.  The mix powder tasted a lot like vanilla cake.  (In fact, my only complaint was that it was overly vanilla-y.  Probably imitation flavoring.)  The ingredients on the box are wheat flour, sugar, leavening, vanilla (with an undefined adjective), and salt.

Conclusion:  I'd like to make this again, although it's so terribly decadent I'm not sure I would ever be brave enough to be left alone with it again.  I'd been thinking it was too bad that I probably wouldn't be able to find the mix again.  But after noting on the box that this is a popular Indonesian treat, it occurred to me that they probably make it from scratch.  Which means there are recipes. :)

Recipe:  Digging around on the Internet, I found a recipe that includes yeast, which would be fun to try, but this one seemed very close to the mix I made:  Martabak Manis via SortedFoodThis one at 196 Flavors also sounds good.

Monday, November 6, 2017

Rum raisin shortbread


Normally I find Martha Stewart recipes to be unnecessarily complicated and then don't even taste that good, but this one was an exception.  I'm in the process of moving, so baking hasn't been on my agenda AT ALL.  But I've been trying to use up ingredients, and this one took care of some of the more expensive items:  currants, coconut, and butter.  I'd already packed my measuring cups and spoons, and all my baking pans, so I had to improvise and all measurements are approximate.  I also cut the recipe in half, and I reduced the sugar.

Here's what I used, resulting in 1 dozen bars:

1/4 cup Myers's Rum
1/2 cup currants
1 stick (8 ounces) salted butter
3/8 1/4 cup confectioner's sugar
about 8 drops orange extract
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup flour
3/8 cup unsweetened coconut powder (see note)
1/2 teaspoon salt

Soak the currants in the rum overnight, or cheat and heat in the microwave for about 30 seconds, then allow to cool.  They should be plump.  Drain and reserve 1 tablespoon of the rum.  Drink the rest.

Heat the oven to 325 F.  Cream the butter and the sugar, then add the extracts and the reserved rum, blending in between additions.  Add the flour in three portions, blending between additions.  Stir in the currants and the coconut.  Spread into a 8" x 6" baking pan and bake for about 30-35 minutes until the top is slightly firm and the edges have started to brown.  Cool in pan.


Reading the comments in the original recipe, a lot of people had trouble with this recipe, and in particular they said it needed more flour.  (Perhaps this is why the recipe is no longer-- in 2024-- available on her website.)  Admittedly, I ended up with a sort of batter; it was a good thing I had already intended to bake these in a pan rather than as cookies on a sheet, so it wasn't a problem.  But the bars were fairly soft, so I can see something needs to be done about the texture if you wanted to make cookies.  Adding flour would dilute the rich flavor, but the only other option really is to reduce the liquid, which also reduces the flavor.  Perhaps a combination.  Or perhaps chill the batter slightly to make it more manageable and THEN roll it into a log.  It's worth figuring out how to make these work, because the flavor was terrific.


Conclusion:  Delicious!  These tasted like Christmas pudding.  The edges were especially tasty because they had that browned-butter flavor.  Individually cut cookies would provide more of that than the bar form.

Recipe:  Rum-Raisin Shortbread Cookies via Martha Stewart