Monday, February 18, 2019

February ABC challenge: mini Brie, date, and walnut bread

This is our first challenge from this year's source, Brown Eyed Baker. (We skipped January, although I did make her Morning Buns last month, because I LOVE THEM.) I'm afraid I've changed it up so much that it doesn't much resemble the original. The idea of going through all the trouble of making a cheese-swirled yeast bread when I could get essentially the same thing, albeit not as fancy, by melting a few slices on a piece of white didn't excite me. I could have replaced the filling with any number of things, but I tried to stay within the "savory" category as much as I could while still being intrigued by the bake.
I discovered the decadent combination of dates and this incredibly rich, buttery (and expensive) Saint-André triple-cream Brie cheese several years ago and decided to try working that into the bread. I also added walnuts for texture and flavor, as well as using half whole wheat flour.

The original recipe makes 2 large loaves, which I scaled back to one-quarter of the original.  This is what I used:

1/4 cup lukewarm water 
56g (1/4 cup + 1½ teaspoons) lukewarm milk(65g)
1 Tablespoon honey (or 1 Tablespoon + 3/4 teaspoon granulated sugar)
1 teaspoons (3.5g) instant yeast
198g flour (¾ cup AP, ¾ whole wheat, 1 Tablespoon high gluten) (209g)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon vegetable oil
1/4 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
3/4 cup (140g) dates, chopped and softened in 3 Tablespoons warm water
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger (optional)
4 ounces (113g) triple-cream Brie cheese, thinly sliced
1¾ cups (7oz/198g) diced onion (about 1 medium onion) or 1 small bunch of fresh chives (1 oz/28.5g), minced
2½ cups (12 oz/340g) grated, shredded, or cubed cheese


Combine the water, milk, and honey (which is what I used) and whisk in the yeast until dissolved; allow to proof.  In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and salt (and sugar, if using.)  When proofed, add the yeast mixture, along with the vegetable oil, into the dry ingredients.  If using a mixer, use the paddle (or hook) attachment and mix on the lowest speed for 2 minutes. If mixing by hand, use a large spoon and stir for about 2 minutes. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes. 

Switch to the dough hook and mix on medium-low speed, or continue mixing by hand, for 3 minutes, adjusting with flour or liquid as needed. The dough should be soft, supple, and tacky but not sticky.  Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface.  Work in the walnuts, then knead for 1 or 2 minutes until they're evenly distributed.  Form into a ball and place in a clean, lightly oiled bowl; cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and immediately refrigerate overnight for up to 4 days.  The dough should double in size in the refrigerator.  (If you want to bake the bread the same day, just let it rest at room temperature for 60 to 90 minutes, until it doubles in size.)   

 

When you're ready to shape the dough, pour off and reserve any excess water from the dates, then puree, along with the ginger, to a thick but spreadable paste, adding reserved water if necessary; set aside.  Bring the dough to room temperature before shaping.  Transfer to a lightly floured work surface, dust with flour, and roll into a rectangle about 4 inches wide and 16 inches long.  (See thoughts on size.)  Spread the date paste over the surface, weighing it more heavily on the outside end of the strip and leaving about an inch on the outside end bare.



Lay the cheese slices in a staggered formation on top, also weighing them more heavily on the outside end of the strip, then roll it up to form a log. (It should be as tight as you can get it without squeezing out the filling.)  If any cheese or walnuts fall out, tuck them back in.  Pinch the seam to seal.  


 



 
Place in either a greased pan or on a greased cookie sheet and cover loosely with plastic wrap, then let rise at room temperature for about 90 minutes, until increased to about 1½ times its original size. 


About 15 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C), or 300°F (149°C) for a convection oven. Because of the cheese, there may be air pockets or tunnels in the risen dough that could cause it to separate in the spirals. To minimize this, poke through the top crust in a few spots with a skewer or toothpick. The dough may fall a bit, but it will recover in the oven. Bake for about 35 minutes. The bread is done when it's a deep golden brown and the internal temperature is about 185°F (85°C) in the center. Remove from the pan or sheet and cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.



I was a little afraid that this was going to be an expensive disaster, but it turned out well!  I was disappointed in the shape; I think perhaps I didn't allow it to rise long enough before baking.  Consequently the outside hardened, leaving the inside nowhere to go but out the sides.  I also think the size was unwieldy.  I based it on this Cranberry Cinnamon Swirl Bread, but the filling for this recipe was much bulkier and it didn't roll up as nicely.  Next time I might roll the dough out to 5 x 12 or 5 x 14.   

Conclusion:  This had a curiously "dark"---perhaps earthy---flavor to it that I couldn't quite pin down...  sort of  anti-umami.  I think it was the combination of the pungent cheese and the dates and the whole wheat.  Unusual, but very tasty.  I was trying to decide whether it needed some sort of spread, but I really can't think what I would put on it.  (If I ate pork, a thin slice of Serrano ham rolled in would be great.)  The cheese already gives it a buttery flavor, and there was plenty of date paste to add enough moisture.  I'd have liked it to have had a little more cheese, and a few more walnuts, maybe even up to 1/2 cup.  But over all I was really pleased with how this turned out (other than the shape.  I'd try to find a proper pan for it next time.)

Original recipe:  Soft Cheese and Pepperoni Bread via Brown Eyed Baker

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